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Japan 2010 - Part 2 - Takayama
Monday, July 26 to Wednesday July 28
Monday, July 26, 2010
We had set the alarm for 6 AM. L was awake by 5. We eventually got up, showered, dressed and finished the packing. We went to the breakfast lounge just as they were opening the door at 6:30. Breakfast over we checked e-mails, grabbed the bags and checked out. We got over to the bus station over an hour early for our 9 AM bus ride to Takayama. You load and unload your own baggage on the bus, this was our first surprise. The bus had assigned seating and surprised both of us that we weren't the only non-Asians along for the ride. Neither of them spoke to us however, so we have no idea where they were from.
It was a 5 hour ride with 2 smoke breaks and a 1/2 hour lunch stop. The "truck stop" had a half dozen small counters selling various food items including shumai on a stick! Shumai is that pork dumpling you get at dim sum. It's J's favorite. This vendor was selling skewers of three dumplings each. The locals probably thought of them the same way we think of 7-11 corndogs but we loved them.
Shumai on a Stick!
The last 1/2 of the ride was very mountainous, with curves that reminded us very much of Greece, except there were no sheep or goats and it is very lush and green. By the time we got to Takayama it had rained on us 3 times, and the clouds were piling up here too. Our inn is around the corner and down the block from the bus/train station.
When we checked in L was given a Yukata and obi (on loan) to wear around the inn and to meals. The one she chose is a dark blue with pink (plum I think) blossoms and the obi almost matches the pink flowers. J's yukata is very manly in grey and white, no obi of course. L got lost about 1/2 way into getting the Yukata tied (despite the instruction card with pictures and text, written in perfectly clear Japanese) and was forced to call for help. The ladies maid who came in gave things a few sharp tugs and whipped the ties around, all done in 3 minutes flat.
Us in our yukatas
The room was cool. Just inside the door from the hall was a small section of hard-wood floor where you remove your slippers (we removed our shoes back in the hotel lobby). One step up and you are on another section of floor with sliding doors on either side and one in straight ahead. To the left is the washroom, with a sink area and an enclosed area with the bathtub and the shower. To the right is the toilet room. Just above the control panel is a small card with instructions in English. We particularly liked the warning "Don't PRESS the button without sitting on the seat". Certainly makes us feel safe.
The toilet room and the washroom
The room itself was a single open space with a large window to the right. In the center of the room is a low table and two chairs without legs. The room was nicely decorated and quite comfortable.
Our Hotel room
The view wasn't much; we were in the center of town after all. Still, you could see the surrounding mountains and traditional roofs so we liked it.
The view from our room
Supper was h u g e. We started with a small shot of plum wine. Moved into the appetizer that had about 6 different items, 2 of each. Then the consomme soup, Sashimi again about 6 slices each, a salad that was large pieces of vegetable that was dunked into an oil and anchovy paste mix that was kept hot over a candle, 2 whole grilled fish, Teppanyaki (bbq) that had 4 pieces of pork, and chicken and 6 pieces of beef, as well as 2 pieces each of 6 vegetables and a couple of huge chunks of mushroom. Again, it is impossible to describe how incredible Japanese beef is. The fat just disintegrates in your mouth and the rest is like beef jello (ok so, yes, I can describe it, but it doesn't quite do it justice, right?). Then we had a bowl of miso soup, a bowl of rice with ginger and spring onion, and a dish of pickles (4 each).
The waitress then suggested we go to the dessert bar! L decided that was just silly, and had a couple of bowls of tea, (she may regret the caffeine...) J found 3 items that he really had to try. There was a Blueberry mousse, a small tiramisu, and a green apple jello. All quite acceptable.
Upon returning to our room we found that the table and chairs had been moved to one side and the futons had been laid out and our beds made up. complete with a note wishing us a good night's sleep and a little origami crane on J's pillow. J stayed in the room to work on the diary while L changed into the bathing robe and went down to the women's bath. Two really lovely large pools of hot water about 24 inches deep or so. There was bath soap, shampoo, facial scrub, nail polish, all laying out to be used. Available for purchase from the Inn as well if you really like it.
Bedtime
A third change into the sleeping robe will be accomplished soon. It would seem that they must have people doing nothing but laundry here.... L wonders if she could take one of them home with her.....
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
L slept quite well but J did not. A futon and one small pillow do not compare with a pillow top mattress and king-size pillows. The Japanese breakfast was a success however, and we have ordered it again for tomorrow morning. We will remember to bring the camera as well.
On our way out, L took a picture of a bookend on a small table in the hallway.
L thought the bookend was cute
We went over to the train station first thing, and booked our tickets to Kyoto, the man offered us "non-smoking" and we jumped on it with "Hi! Domo" translates loosely as "yes thanks". The train leaves at 9:37 AM and we will have a transfer, but should be in Kyoto by 3ish I think.
We then headed for the morning market, passing over the river that runs through the middle of town. Some interesting statues on the bridge and some birds in the water.
The local river (and L in her new dress)
On the bridge and in the river.
At the morning market, we wandered around and picked up a few odds and ends.
The morning market
We continued on through one of the historic housing districts. We passed small restaurants and shops and stopped to watch some people resurfacing tatami mats. We never realized that the mats are almost 1 inch thick. On our way back to the main street that would lead us to the temple district, L found a carry bag that she just had to have. It went perfectly with her new dress.
Historical District
Buildings and L's new carry bag
Of course, there was the usual plethora of plants and flowers. We even came across a temple on the way to the temple district. Go figure.
Flowers and Plants
A Temple
A Temple and its garden
At the entrance to the temple district is a small fountain where you can wash your hands and even take a drink on a hot day. We didn't have a guide book with us so we don't know anything about the individual temples (probably just as well for you, the reader). From what we could tell, each "family" in Takayama has their own temple. We saw several temples with small graveyards beside them. Some temples had restoration work going on, one place even had a brand new building under construction, so these temples are well taken care of.
Entering the Temple District
The Temple District
The Temple District
A very old stone marker
At one place, where the "temple walk" crossed a busy street, they built a tunnel under the street to allow people to cross safely:
Keeping the tourists safe
J took a picture of a roof that he thought was cool. L took a picture of some twig brooms by someone's back door. And, of course, flowers.
Local architecture and twig brooms
A water Lily
But we digress; back to the temple pictures.
More Temples
More Temples
More Temples
Heck, even the manhole covers are attractive:
Even the manhole covers are fancy
We passed many backyard gardens on the downhill side of the temple walk and even a few small rice fields. The rice was not quite ripe yet but you could see it on the stalks, kind of like wheat.
Rice field
After we finished the temple district, we considered going through another park area, but it was uphill and L heard a beer calling her name... downhill. The beer was accompanied by a couple sticks of the local beef, wish we could get that in our suitcases to take home!
Afternoon snack
Obviously, Takayama is a tourist destination with the usual touristy photo ops. Well... we are tourists, after all.
Silly tourists
We got into the "historical preservation area" mostly historic type buildings all of which are shops of some sort on the main floor. As we were walking along a middle aged Asian lady coming towards us says "Nice, nice, takes so long time, Nice" J let her pet his beard. Didn't tell her it was only about a 6 month growth.
Historical Homes turned into Shops
We went into one shop that sold rather interesting little figurines. We will send the picture of the frog to our friend Bill (back in Calgary) and say "Aren't you glad we didn't get this for you?". We are pretty sure he will agree. L couldn't find a price tag on the turtle lawn sprinkler otherwise, we definitely would have been looking for space in our luggage for it.
Interesting Shops
The shop even had an ice cream counter that made designer blends so we stopped for a snack. The little cones sticking out the side are actually the spoons.
Ice Cream break
We continued on a little further before we finally decided to pack it in and head back to the hotel. No, it was not raining out, people were sporting umbrellas to keep the sun off.
Small park
On our way back, we found a really unique (we thought) vending machine. It sells flower arrangements, and judging by the condensation on the insides of the windows it was refrigerated. Definitely not something you see every day.
Vending machine for Flower Arrangements
We also passed a home improvement store and a sign that said the temperature was 35 C. We also took a couple of pictures outside our ryokan (hotel).
Hardware store and sign with temperature
Outside our Ryokan
After L picked out her evening wear, we booked the private bath for 4 PM. That way we could bathe together, and it filled in an hour or so before dinner. As we were getting L into the yukata J mentioned that it was almost as bad as helping with Renn Faire clothing, and thank goodness that the men's outfit was easier to deal with. Still, we did look good!
Dressed for the evening
Another lovely supper. It was different than the previous evening's supper. Apparently, they serve specific meals for each night of your stay (though I don't know if there was a third night's menu, we didn't see any signs of one). We took pictures of everything this time and also got some shots of the screens in the dining room too.
Supper
More Supper
A lot of Supper
The Dining Room
By the way, we couldn't help noticing that the hotel tried to cover up anything that didn't quite look traditional:
I guess Fire Extinguishers are not very traditional
We were going to go out for another beer and to look at the lights in one of the more traditional areas, but the electrical storm and rain has convinced us to stay in and update the diary instead.
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
It was J's turn to sleep last night. He found an extra pillow in the closet and that seemed to make all the difference. L, on the other hand, did not do so well. We had just accepted an offer on her parent's home the previous day and L was awake all night thinking about packing and moving and everything that has to be done to ready the house for turn-over.
Breakfast, like dinner, seems to be specific to the day of your stay. Day 2's breakfast had different dishes than Day 1 but they both had the ubiquitous rice and miso soup, and green tea.
Breakfast
More Breakfast
Way too much Breakfast
We finished packing and checked out. The two nights had been prepaid so there was only a small bill covering a couple of beer, the use of the private bath, and some taxes, etc. that were not in the pre-pay cost.
Next stop, the train station, and Kyoto.